On June 26, 2025, Chile’s government took a bold step to address rampant fast‑fashion waste leaking into its soil. Legislation was passed to include textiles in the country’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) law, a decisive move to stem the tide of discarded clothing in the Atacama Desert.
Mountains of waste in the desert
The Atacama Desert, the driest non‑polar region on Earth, has become the final dumping ground for thousands of tons of used clothing each year. Second-hand importers bring in over 123,000 tons annually, making Chile the world’s fourth-largest importer of such garments. A significant portion ends up in illegal desert dumps near Iquique and Alto Hospicio.
From voluntary to mandatory responsibility
Until now, Chile’s EPR law—established in 2017—covered only six product categories. Textiles were excluded, leaving a major loophole.
With textiles now added, importers must:
- Report volumes of clothing brought into the country.
- Organize take-back, recycling, and reuse systems.
- Participate in upcoming regulations aimed at cleaning the desert.
Circular economy shift
The environmental agenda is clear. The government aims to eradicate open‑air dumpsites and foster a culture of repair, reuse, and recycling. This legislative pivot signals a shift away from a linear “make‑use‑dump” model toward a circular textile’s economy.
Beatriz O’Brien from Fashion Revolution Chile said this change will “spur a new consumer culture,” pushing companies to embed circular practices.
Impact and regional leadership
Chile’s action is gaining attention across Latin America. The country imports 90% of its clothing, which translates to over 572,000 tonnes of textile waste per year. By mandating EPR for textiles, Chile joins a handful of countries globally like France and Italy leading the regulation of fashion waste.
The move could also formalize informal recycling networks, supporting local collectors and small-scale upcycling ventures.
Challenges ahead
Implementing EPR won’t be easy:
- Sorting, collection, and recycling infrastructure needs urgent expansion.
- Importers must adapt to new compliance burdens.
- A nationwide shift in consumer habits is required to support reuse and repair.
That said, the combination of law, public pressure, and civic action could fuel a profound transformation.
What’s next?
Tomás Saieg from the Ministry of Environment confirmed that regulators plan to define ambitious collection and recycling targets by 2029. Meanwhile, local NGOs like Desierto Vestido are already rescuing and refurbishing garments from the desert for resale.
Chile’s EPR extension marks a pivotal moment for global textile responsibility. It tackles a crisis that hits hardest in vulnerable regions like Atacama yet resonates worldwide. The real test will be in execution: building circular industry systems, empowering communities, and closing the loop on fashion.
Sources:
- The Guardian
- aljazeera.com
- nationalgeographic.com
